Everything I know About Tamraght

“No one ever comes to Tamraght by accident.” If I had a dirham for every time I heard somebody say this, I could quit my day job. And it’s true: there is a magic about this place that draws you in – a chill surf village tucked into the Moroccan coastline, between its glitzier big sister Taghazout and the resort destination of Agadir.

It might not have its own page in your guidebook yet, but give it time – Tamraght is having a hot moment right now, with coworking cafés and surf camps springing up seemingly overnight. You’ll plan to come for a week and end up staying a month – or six. Here are some of my highlights, and tips for making the most of your stay at Nomadico Taghazout Bay.

Viewpoint after a 25-min hike up the hill behind Tamraght

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Getting there

For a tiny surf spot, Tamraght is pretty well-connected. Agadir airport is less than an hour away by taxi (which you can pre-book through Nomadico), but it’s an easy enough route from Marrakech too – around four hours by minibus, with Souk to Surf running a regular, reliable (and air conditioned!) shuttle service between the city and the coast: https://www.souktosurf.com/

Come for the surfing…

Despite living on this little stretch of Moroccan coast for half a year, I still can’t call myself a proper surfer. But the breaks around Tamraght and Taghazout are perfect whatever stage you’re at on your surfing journey – from Devil’s Rock (Tamraght) and Banana Beach (Aurir) to the more challenging point breaks of Killers and Anchor Point (Taghazout). You’ll find hundreds if not thousands of talented instructors around here available for group lessons or 1:1 instruction – and just an hour and a half north of Tamraght is Imsouane, a tiny fishing village, surfer’s paradise, and home to a stunning right-hander and Africa’s longest wave. Don’t miss a visit here, even if you’re a beginner more comfortable in the whitewash or baby waves: my very first time on a board was at Imsouane and I had a blast, so take it from me – it really is suitable for all levels.

…stay for the vibes

Tamraght and Taghazout have loads to offer aside from surfing. You’ll see camels patrolling up and down Imourane Beach on a daily basis, or for a faster pace, enjoy a canter through the surf on horseback before heading up into the hills for a day of riding and a picnic lunch. Look out over Devil’s Rock from Le Mirage and watch the world, the fishermen and the surfers go by. Take a day trip to Paradise Valley for a short hike and a dip in the gorge pools, or head to Timlalin dunes to go sandboarding after clocking off for the evening. And of course, no visit to Taghazout would be complete without heading up the hill to experience the impeccable vibes, golden glow and chill beats of the skate park at sunset.

Spices at Souk El Had Market in Agadir

In town for a while?

If so, I heartily recommend venturing further afield to get a taste of Moroccan life in the neighbouring towns and villages. A short walk (and even shorter drive) from Tamraght, the centre of Aurir is chaotic and vibrant – you’re likely to see live chickens for sale and animal carcasses hanging from the meat stalls that line the bustling main street, as well as towering cartfuls of oranges and stalls selling bread, vegetables and other produce.

Head to Anza market on Wednesdays – you’ll find it opposite Carrefour – to hunt out a bargain on everything from household essentials, toiletries, clothes and food to the most random selection of second-hand knick-knacks. (Fencing helmet, anyone?) Time it for sunset, when the seafront park turns into a buzzing play area alive with local families and young couples.

And if markets are your jam, make sure you pay a visit to Souk El Had in Agadir – it’s one of the biggest in Africa. You’ll find everything you need here, and lots you don’t, as well as plenty of delicious snacks to keep you going as you wander round – dates, olives, the ubiquitous Moroccan sweets, seasonal delicacies like walnuts and dried sidr fruit – even snail soup for the seriously adventurous.

Office hours

Sometimes work is unavoidable, and Nomadico has you covered here: the rooftop workspaces at Abdel’s House and Louise’s House are second to none – spacious and comfortable, with excellent WiFi and meeting rooms and breakout areas available – but if you do fancy a change of scene, there are loads of alternative options nearby for the days you want to switch things up. My favourites include Adam’s Café – where you can work at comfy wooden tables on the shady terrace for as long as you can nurse a mint tea – and Manzili, on the other side of the village, with its incredible views of the ocean, chilled out vibe and fair pricing structure. Relatively new, nomad-friendly cafés include Surf & Friends, Playa (close to Louise’s House) and the delightful, cosy Nafas (just round the corner from Abdel’s) which hosts regular games nights and does the best chai latte in town.

Abdel's Rooftop Workspace

Mind & Body

Tamraght isn’t just a surf paradise – it’s yogi heaven, too. After a hard day on the waves – or at your desk – I can't think of a better way to unwind than by stretching out those fascia with a restorative sunset yoga session, emerging from a blissful savasana to see the stars twinkling overhead. Reliable and regular classes happen at Kasbari in Upper Tamraght and Ocean Tribe on the seafront, among many others – or check out Kalananda, a peaceful yoga shala nestled in the heart of the countryside between Tamraght and Aurir, which offers everything from meditation and singing circles to challenging Ashtanga and Animal Flow workouts run by local teachers. You’ll find comprehensive class listings at Yoga Tea Spot.

And if you really want to pamper yourself, scrub off the day with a luxurious hammam at Tamraght Spa House, indulge in a massage at the Riad des 3 Soeurs – or go for a more authentic experience at the local hammam in neighbouring Aurir.

For the night owls

Getting Ready For A Night Out - Karaoke

If the dancefloor is calling you, the hotels lining the promenade between Tamraght and Taghazout host regular DJ sets – or if you’re at the beach after hours you may just stumble upon an impromptu DJ session and a secret location beach bonfire party. Or find your rhythm at a silent disco at Devil’s Rock – Morocco may be a dry country, but who needs alcohol to have a good time when you can stand in the surf letting the waves lap your ankles while Afrobeats fill your ears?

If local music is more your scene, you might catch an impromptu Ahwash (Amazigh) jam session in one of the beachfront cafes at Imourane if you’re lucky. (In this part of the world, Amazigh culture is never far away: according to some sources – aka the guy who makes knock-off designer sandals in Aurir for twelve euros – Amazigh heritage makes up as much as 80% of the population in the Souss region.) And for even more cultural immersion, there are also Nomadico’s seasonal packages to take advantage of, with weekly Arabic lessons and cooking classes run by local teachers.

Speaking of food…

Eating out in Tamraght is so cheap and varied you might have to force yourself to cook at home every once in a while! There’s plenty to choose from, including Italian, Lebanese and poke, with veggie/vegan and gluten free options available too. If hipster coffee is your thing you’ll be right at home at Hey Yallah or Daydream. Check out Machi Mouchkil in Upper Tamraght for Moroccan street food. My hot tip, though, is Sozi Cookies on the waterfront in Taghazout. The women who run it will greet you like a long-lost friend, and the cookies are so soft and gooey you need a fork to eat them.

It’s always best to go local: my personal gastro highlight is eating fresh fish in Aurir for dinner, caught that day and gutted in front of you at the fishmonger’s, then grilled at the side of the road and served with zingy Moroccan salad, warm bread and fresh tea. Absolutely don’t miss the colourful souk in Upper Tamraght on Tuesdays (perfect timing for family dinner) and make sure you tick off all the other Moroccan favourites: msemen, berber eggs, rfisa, harira, briwats, pastilla, traditional Friday cous cous at Chez Mimoun (aka The Old Lady) – and the ubiquitous tagine. You’ll find the latter just about everywhere, but my favourite place to eat it is at the top of the hill behind the village, after a brief but bracing hike. Nothing says community spirit like watching the sun go down and huddling around the glowing embers with new friends, good conversation, music and a hot, sugary atay (mint tea). Pure magic.

But don’t just take my word for it! Come and experience the charm and enchantment of Tamraght for yourself – and find out why it’s such a hard place to leave.

Writer's BIO:

Lottie Fyfe is a writer, editor and translator who loves to connect ideas with audiences. Whether she’s out exploring the world or back home in the Highlands of Scotland, you can always find her here.